An Amateur’s Guide to Hiking Maine’s 100 Mile Wilderness

View from Barren Ledges on Barren Mountain, 100 Mile Wilderness.

Overview

With the right preparation, the 100 Mile Wilderness (100MW) can be a challenging but enjoyable eight-day hike (and for thru-hikers and experienced “speedhikers,” who can rip off 20-mile days, substantially less).  Dad (then 41) and daughter (then 12) completed this in two segments in 2017 and 2018.  We definitely allowed ourselves extra time to enjoy places we liked, or to recover from wet gear or injuries, so plan on ten days.  Our 100 Mile Wilderness journey finally complete, we took a look back and came up with a better plan of attack.  So, here is our guide, with a suggested itinerary, and a packing list.

Direction: There are arguments for going south to north (like we did), or alternately, starting at Abol Bridge, and finishing in Monson.  The northern part is substantially flatter (read: faster) terrain, so starting with a heavy pack might be easier north-south, eating up food weight as you move south.  But starting from the south, and climbing over the Barren-Chairback and White Cap ranges might make your tired legs want to finish with the more gently rolling terrain of the north.

Timing: When we started the 100 MW, we did so at the end of June/beginning of July.  Once we got down from the higher elevations, the heat was oppressive, and the bugs were brutal.  We later finished the 100 MW at the end of September, and it was cold at night, but pleasant during the day, and there were no bugs.  I think a happy medium would be the beginning of September (assuming your work/school/life allows this), which would still be warm enough to enjoy dips in the lakes and streams, cool enough at night to sleep well, and at the very tail end of bug season.  One caveat to this plan – AT Lean-To’s and tent sites may be fairly full, as many thru-hikers will be making their last push to Katahdin. Check out this summary from The Trek of thru-hiker tips for the 100MW, including a 5-day itinerary. Some water sources may also be dry by this time of summer, depending on the rains. Speaking of which, watch the weather forecast – water crossings can be treacherous after heavy rains further upstream.

Resupply: We didn’t do this, but it’s worth considering.  Some purists believe that it’s cheating, but lightening your pack enough to enjoy your walk in the woods might help a great deal, and it’s your hike.  Shaw’s Hiker Hostel (Monson), the Appalachian Trail Lodge (Millinocket), and 100 Mile Wilderness Adventures and Outfitters are reputable providers who can coordinate food drops for you along the 100MW.  They can also provide advice, shuttle service, Baxter/Katahdin permits, help you stage your vehicle at either end, and provide a place to stay before and/or after.

East Branch, Pleasant River, 100 Mile Wilderness.

Suggested Itinerary

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Day 1: ME-15 in Monson to Wilson Valley Lean-To (10.4 mi)

Overview: Day One is a rolling hike, getting used to a heavy pack, and fording several streams.

Highlight: Little Wilson Falls, a sixty-foot waterfall (mile 6.6)

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Day 2: Wilson Valley Lean-To to West Chairback Pond (14.1 mi)

Overview: Day Two is a longer day (start early), with a ford of Long Pond Stream, and a a steady, strenuous ascent of Barren Mountain, to an up-and-down traverse of the Barren-Chairback Range, ending with a tent site on West Chairback Pond (.2 mile side trail).

Highlight: Views from Barren Ledges (mile 6) and insectivorous pitcher plants in Fourth Mountain Bog (mile 10.4).

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Day 3: West Chairback Pond to Carl A. Newhall Lean-To (11.8 mi)

Overview: Completion of Barren-Chairback traverse, and descent to the fording of the West Branch of the Pleasant River.  The afternoon ascent up Gulf Hagas Mountain along Gulf Hagas Brook will feel long, without many landmarks (note: camping or campfires are prohibited south of the Gulf Hagas Cut-off trail to north of the West Branch of the Pleasant River).

Highlight: Dizzying descent of Chairback Mountain, and a welcome downhill hike through pine forests to Gulf Hagas and the tall old-growth pines of the Hermitage.

Change-up: AMC Gorman Chairback Lodge and Cabins, on Long Pond, accessible via Third Mountain Trail or K-I Road.  This AMC Lodge is a place to rest, get clean, relax, and enjoy the wilderness.

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Day 4: Carl A. Newhall Lean-To to East Branch Lean-To (10.8 mi)

Overview: A long ascent of the White Cap range, then a descent to the East Branch of the Pleasant River.

Highlight: Cold, clear spring water from the spring near the Sidney Tappan Campsite (source of Gulf Hagas Brook).  Summit of White Cap (3,654 ft), with great views (on a clear day) that include Katahdin.

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Day 5: East Branch Lean-To to Antlers Campsite (16 mi)

Overview: A climb over the saddle between Big and Little Boardman Mountains, over Little Boardman, a long walk past Crawford Pond and Cooper Pond (watch for moose) to Antlers Campsite on Lower Jo-Mary Lake.

Highlight: Swimming in Crawford Pond (5.1 mi)

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Day 6: Antlers Campsite to South End, Nahmakanta Lake (11 mi)

Overview: Short climb over Potaywadjo Ridge, pass Pemadumcook Lake, walk along Nahmakanta Stream to south end of Nahmakanta Lake.

Highlight: Swimming at sand beach on Lower Jo-Mary Lake (1.7 mi), and Lake Nahmakanta (11 mi).

Change-up: for a break and a hot meal, try White House Landing Camps on Pemadumcook Lake (look for the sign along the AT), who will pick you up by boat if you call, (207) 745-5116, and meet them at a landing off the old Mahar Tote Road (appx 5.1 mi south of Nahmakanta Lake).  There is a great 2018 podcast episode on how White House Landing Camps came to be: http://www.outtherepodcast.com/episodes/2018/11/24/perfect-strangers

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Day 7: South End, Nahmakanta Lake to Rainbow Stream Lean-To (10.7 mi)

Overview: One last mountain to cross, Nesuntabunt, then a long, forested walk to Rainbow Stream Lean-To.

Highlight: Swimming holes near Rainbow Stream Lean-To (10.7 mi).

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Day 8:  Rainbow Stream Lean-To to Abol Bridge (15 mi)

Overview: Last day, peaceful walk alongside Rainbow Deadwaters and Rainbow Lake, a short ascent and descent of Rainbow Ledges, and a last push across rolling forest and bog to Abol Bridge.

Highlight: View from Rainbow Ledges (9 mi), and finishing.

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Mountain View Pond, 100 Mile Wilderness.

Packing List

We will assume that, if you are hiking the 100 MW, you have already chosen your pack and boots, know if you want hiking poles (yes, please, especially on wet, rocky descents), and know how you will cook and purify water.  We overpacked, and this list (with links to what we used) cuts out non-essentials like a mini-fishing rod (we didn’t catch anything), and firestarter sticks (we only made two fires – in designated areas, of course, and birch bark worked nicely).  Dad had a 75-liter, sixty lb pack because he didn’t want to come up short on supplies with a kid in the woods, but this can be done with a much lighter pack.  Remember to leave no trace (empty meal pouches make great trash bags to carry with you).  Also, waterproof Stuff Sacks are essential to streamline your packing, keep items dry, and double as bear bags to suspend your food at night.  Would recommend at least two (one each for clothing and food).

Exterior:

Pack raincover (budget alternative is a trash bag) Osprey UltraLight Raincover

Osprey Hydraulics 3L water reservoir (this can be heavy, but you don’t have to fill it all the way.  You may also prefer 2 smaller liter-size bottles with purification tablets, instead)

MSR Sweetwater Microfilter for water purification (see above)

Camping/hygiene gear:

Headlamp/batteries

Solar lantern (lightweight, collapsible, and lights up interior of tent at night)

Tent and ground cloth (we used Kelty Salida 2 two-person, with ground cloth).  Some try to cut weight by just using a sleeping bag and pad, and using the AT shelters, but we found that they were crowded and noisy, and the tent gave us the option of finding a beautiful spot early, or pushing a little further, and just finding a flat spot at night.

Lightweight sleeping bag (we both used Marmot NanoWave 55, which was perfect)

Sleeping pad (Therm-a-rest ProLite Mattress was compact and comfortable)

Wicking towel (Packtowl UltraLite Towel wrapped around clothing doubled as pillow)

Mosquito headnet (get a long one that you can tuck into your shirt)

Parachute Cord (this is great, with StuffSacks, for hanging food up at night, making repairs, and attaching things to your pack)

Baby wipes

Raingear (your choice, would suggest high-quality lightweight jacket and pants, rather than poncho)

Maps (we used Maps 1 through 3 of the Official Map and Guide to the AT in Maine)

Compass

Ivory soap in Ziploc (99.44% pure, and it floats.  Perfect for cleaning up in lakes/streams)

Gold Bond foot powder

Toothbrush

Toothpaste

Sunblock

Bug spray w/Deet

Toilet paper

First Aid kit: tweezers, bandaids, moleskin, itch cream, ibuprofen

Folding knife

Duct tape (mini-roll)

USB solar charger (updated 2024, based on reviews and increases in tech – this is pretty neat, lightweight, and recharges while you hike, using the sun.  Great way to keep juice in your phone for photos or proof-of-life text messages when cell service is available)

Eating (mesh bag for cookware) :

• All-in-one spork (Light My Fire Titanium Spork)
• JetBoil stove with igniter and two fuel containers (plus back-up lighter)
• SeatoSummit collapsible bowl (we shared entrees, you don’t need this solo)
• Aluminum mug for coffee/hot chocolate/adult beverages
• Sponge soaked in soap (in Ziploc to clean up), and small rag to dry

Clothing (this will vary based on timing- this was our mid-summer list):

3 + pairs wool socks (Smartwool Med. Weight Hiker)

2 pairs Ex Officio underwear (quick-drying, anti-microbial)

2 t-shirts/tank tops

2 pairs convertible pants/shorts

Hat

Clean long-sleeve t-shirt/shorts in Ziploc (to wear at night/in camp)

Lightweight shoes (I can’t wear Crocs, but people love them.  Flip flops are no good for river crossings.  Happy medium may be barefoot trailrunning shoes)

1 jacket or heavy shirt

Food (plan on 1.5 to 2 lbs per person per day, and realize you will be sick of most of it by Day 3, so variety is good.  Get rid of bulky packaging before you hike, and in the morning, take out the food for each day, placing it in more accessible pouches on the outside of your pack):

• Mountain House freeze-dried meals or packaged (Annie’s) mac and cheese (dinner)
• Pepperoni
• Cheese sticks
• Tortillas/lavash bread (use with pepperoni and cheese sticks to roll up)
• Oatmeal (breakfast)
• Peanut butter and/or Nutella
• Mixed Nuts (mix in with oatmeal, also mixes with dark chocolate are great)
• Pre-made PB +J sandwiches
• Granola/Energy bars (rotate flavors)
• Chocolate
• Beef jerky
• Starbucks Via instant coffee and/or hot chocolate packets

Final Thoughts

There will always be better ideas, lighter gear, more efficient plans.  These are simply lessons we learned, and feedback is appreciated.  The itinerary above is intended as a guideline, but there are side trails aplenty, and if you look at our journey, we adjusted to slow down and dry out our gear, avoid lightning and dangerous river fords, and speeded up to push ahead on better days.

If you are taking on the 100 Mile Wilderness, train to do so beforehand, hiking over rough terrain with a heavy pack, and doing multi-day hikes, breaking in all your gear, and finding out where your hot spots/blisters/chafe marks accumulate.  There is no gym replacement or substitute for this.  Our train-up was a fun couple months in the woods of Maine and New Hampshire, increasing distances and pack loads the entire time.

Additionally, have an exit strategy for the 100 Mile Wilderness.  You may sustain an injury or find yourself in a situation beyond your control – that’s why it’s a wilderness, and this is a challenge.  Be realistic, and don’t let pride goad you into bad decisions.  But above all, have fun, and get outside.

(Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, and as an Amazon Associate Hiking in Maine blog earns from qualifying purchases.)

Crooked River Forest (Harrison)

Map kiosk and trailhead for Crooked River Forest, Harrison, Maine

The Crooked River Forest in Harrison is comprised of two forest parcels protected and maintained by the Loon Echo Land Trust (LELT). On a mild December day, I explored the 334 acre Intervale Preserve section, which is open year-round, with the parking area off Scribners Mills Road plowed in the winter. As of November 2023, it is only accessible from the Harrison side of the river (Maple Ridge Road), as the state of Maine permanently closed the Scribners Mill bridge over the Crooked River in Otisfield (“structurally unsound and unsafe for use”). The river and streams were still running high from the large winter storm a little over a week prior. I had the parking lot to myself, where there was a kiosk with a large trail map, and pamphlets with trail maps and info to carry along the hike. Maps and info are also available from LELT here.

Intervale Trail, Crooked River Forest, Harrison, Maine

I started on the Intervale Trail (.62 mile total length), and almost immediately heard the loud honking call of a great blue heron, with identity confirmed when it lumbered out of a tree into flight at my approach. Then along the short straightaway through the forest to an open area, I heard the chirping of a Red Crossbill. At this opening, the Evergreen Trail (1.1 mile total length) splits off to the right, and I continued left towards the Crooked River on the Intervale Trail. The trail is wide and flat, marked by red diamond-shaped placards with a black center, and moves slowly downhill toward the river. I passed over a brook flowing underneath the trail through a culvert ,with the banks covered in a recent overflow of mud and clay, yielding to a straight path through very evenly planted evergreens.

Crooked River from Intervale Trail, Harrison, Maine

Here, I disturbed some deer close to a pleasant curve in the Crooked River, which quickly became visible through a break in the trees. There were little, bubbling rapids and rocks, and trees spaced widely enough to allow for a good place for a picnic. After a short walk of about twenty minutes from the trailhead, the Intervale Trail dead-ends here, unless there’s snow. In the winter, the Winter Snowshoe Trail (.6 miles) would make a loop back to the Evergreen Trail, but without the snow, it’s too overgrown. I doubled back to the trail intersection at the open area, and then took the Evergreen Trail separately. On both trails, I saw ample signs of wildlife, with sounds in the woods, deer hoofprints in the mud, and scat and grey fur along the trail from animal usage, or some life or death struggles. Black-capped Chickadee and Dark-eyed Junco flitted across the path, and I heard Red-breasted Nuthatch and Northern Cardinal in the surrounding forest.

Crooked River from Intervale Trail, Harrison, Maine

The conifer-lined Evergreen Trail is true to its name, and crosses over several peaceful streams. In the wintertime, the trail is groomed for snowmobiles, so it might be a bit more difficult to share the road, depending on traffic. I reached the intersection with the Winter Snowshoe Trail and continued another .4 miles to where the Evergreen Trail ends abruptly in a clearing, with a wooden sign for notice. I turned around and heading back up this long, straight easy trail. My route was pleasant, a Y-shaped retracing of my steps totaling about 3.9 miles, and completed in a leisurely hour and 15 minutes or so. A more efficient snowshoe loop using the Evergreen, Intervale, and Winter Snowshoe Trails would be about 2 miles. In addition, a trail not listed on the map, marked with blue diamonds, is visible bisecting the Evergreen and Intervale Trails. According to the LELT land manager, this is another snowshoe/cross-country ski loop totaling about eight/tenths of a mile, and will be groomed (if there’s snow) by the snowmobile club. After the hike, the nearby Fluvial Brewing off Maple Ridge Road is a great place to grab a beer and snacks (check the hours first). Or, if heading towards Portland, The Good Life Market in Raymond is a perennial go-to for us.

Evergreen Trail, Crooked River Forest, Harrison, Maine

Morse Mountain to Seawall Beach (Phippsburg, ME)

Winter chill at Seawall Beach, Phippsburg, Maine

(The Bates-Morse Mountain Conservation Area can be crowded, particularly in the summer and on weekends. They advise to plan your trip accordingly, and note that they “turn cars away once the parking lot is full.” You can check the status of the lot online at https://www.bmmparking.com/)

Your five-year old could do this, but everyone in the family will love it. It’s the Bates-Morse Mountain Conservation Area near Phippsburg, Maine, a 3.8 mile out-and-back hike over Morse Mountain (433 feet) to Seawall Beach.  Wife here again to report that I think I may have found my favorite “hike” so far! (Full disclosure: while I love the outdoors, I am not on the hard-core side of the hiking spectrum, preferring instead to walk at a steady pace for up to three hours in nice weather. Furthermore, I do not get an adrenaline rush from dangerous climbs so I avoid them.) Hike is in quotations here because this particular adventure may be more of a beautiful walk, given the minimal altitude, the terrain (mostly paved) and the distance. This hike checks all the boxes for me in all seasons. Let’s begin!

Sprague River Salt Marsh, Phippsburg, ME

This trailhead is well-marked. From Route 1 in Bath, you follow Route 209 south to Route 216 to Morse Mountain Road where there is a small parking lot on your left. Arrive early, particularly on summer weekends, because parking is limited (see note and link at beginning to check on it last-minute, particularly with less parking lot capacity due to social distancing). We have been turned away on Father’s Day weekend. At about 8:30 am on a summer Saturday, people are trickling in, but there are usually still spots available. By half an hour to an hour later, all the spots can be full (On New Year’s Eve, the lot was mostly full by mid-morning). There is a friendly attendant there in the summer, giving maps, selling crafts and answering questions (donations accepted).

Morning light through trees, trail over Morse Mountain to Seawall Beach

The entire trail is paved, as this is a service road, so it is wide enough for a bunch of people to walk together and chat (I doubt you will need a trail map, but if you do: Morse Mountain Map). Shortly after departing the lot, you notice the area is quite well maintained by the Bates-Morse Mountain Conservation Corporation with members from the St. John Family (who originally conserved the area), Bates College and the public. For those with four-legged friends, dogs are not allowed in any season.

View from Morse Mountain, Phippsburg, Maine

Bugs can be a big problem here. Very early or late in the season, or with enough of a breeze, they won’t bother you too much. Otherwise, bring strong (Deet-based) insect repellent, and walk fast. About halfway into the hike, you will see a fork in the road and you head right to get to the summit. “Morse Mountain” is really not much more than a hill, yet there are fantastic views at the lookout: the snaking Sprague River, the cliffs in the distance and the gorgeous…drum roll…beach and ocean!

Low tide, Seawall Beach, Phippsburg, Maine

Yeah, I really can’t wait any longer to tell you that this hike ends at Seawall Beach and for those of you who thought you died and went to heaven when you saw nearby Popham Beach, you will be counting your blessings when you see this two-mile stretch of gorgeous sand that is Seawall Beach. After you leave the summit and return to the main path, you have roughly a mile to go to reach the beach. Then, kick off your shoes and enjoy this huge, uncrowded beach.

Seawall Beach in winter, Phippsburg, Maine

We headed right upon entering the beach area and walked for approximately a mile to the “red pole” which is marked on the map and signals the end of the conservation area. A left turn will eventually bring you to Popham Beach. Try to hit this beach at low tide if you can so you will have plenty of room to roam. Daughter loved the large clam shells, sand dollars, sea gulls, ospreys, and little plovers. On a July trip, we saw plenty of seals, as well. The beach is constantly changing with tides, seasons, and weather. On a recent late-December trip, a storm coughed up lobster traps and buoys, which were lined up at the high tide line like a used-car lot.

Swallowtail butterfly near end of life cycle, Seawall Beach, Phippsburg, Maine

Since access is limited, there are so few people on this beach! For three people who hate crowds and love the ocean and the sand, it was kind of hard to leave. The trail is easy and beautiful so the 33 minutes it took to walk back were very pleasant. Here is my advice for your trip to Morse Mountain:

1. Go to the bathroom before you get on the trail and do not plan to drink much liquid unless you are a camel. There are no restrooms and since the trail was fairly crowded, you cannot just “pop off the trail” and go behind a tree very easily without being seen. The ocean is an option, but it’s Maine-cold.
2. Bring bug spray.
3. Consider staying awhile at the beach, which means that you might need a towel, sunscreen, hat, and snacks! The beach is that good.
4. Go early in the day to get a parking spot. If it’s full, you can wait, go to Popham Beach State Park, or try a nearby Phippsburg hike, like one through Basin Preserve or Cooley Preserve.
5. Try to hit low tide.

This truly is a Maine gem and when visitors come and ask where to go, this is going to be on the top of my list as it showcases the beauty that Maine has to offer without the crowds. A little exercise, fresh air, woods, marsh, beach, snacks, family and friends – you can’t beat it.

View from trail over Morse Mountain to Seawall Beach

Rattlesnake Mountain (Raymond, ME)

Viewpoint in summer, Bri-Mar Trail, Rattlesnake Mountain

Rattlesnake Mountain (1,035 ft) is an approximately 2.6 mile moderately difficult (but family-friendly) out-and-back hike in Raymond, Maine, with two good viewpoints overlooking the Lakes Region on the way to the summit. Allow about an hour or two for this adventure, depending upon the abilities of those in your group. The small, well-marked parking area for the Bri-Mar trailhead is off Webbs Mills Road (ME-85), and open from sunrise to sunset. No dogs are allowed on this trail. The trail is also closed during the month of April.

Wildflowers on Bri-Mar Trail, Rattlesnake Mountain, Raymond, Maine

We completed this hike several times, including as a family during the fall, a warm, early July solo hike, with the field at the beginning of the hike full of wildflowers and bees, and the most recent, a late-December trip about a week after a large storm, with the path mucky, and the field a blend of yellow, orange, and brown. The footpath across the field from the parking lot gives way to a wide, pine-covered road through a swampy area, then progresses upward on a more narrow path.

Bri-Mar Trail, Rattlesnake Mountain, Raymond, ME

The forest itself is typically alive with birdsong, from chickadees, woodpeckers, and mourning doves, as well as the chattering and rustling of squirrels and chipmunks. Deerflies were a problem at the beginning of the July hike, but thinned as I climbed. The trail was mostly empty in the morning, as in July I only saw two other trail users, both trail runners, but can be fairly busy on summer afternoons. Even on the winter weekday trip, the small lot was full, and hikers were spread across the trail in various phases.

Bri-Mar Trail, Rattlesnake Mountain

The Bri-Mar trail, named in memory of Brian and Marlene Huntress, is maintained by the Huntress family. This trail is easily followed in spring, summer, and fall, with red arrows spray-painted on rocks and trees in areas of uncertainty. On the recent December trip following the storm, this proved more difficult due to storm damage and leaves, and I found myself tracing a streambed away from the trail, before correcting myself. The trail is steep in places, but becomes more of a ridge hike at the two viewpoints and summit. Logs over the trail provide fun obstacles for kids to climb over, and several wild blueberry bushes cover the margins of the trail towards the summit.

Viewpoint in winter from Bri-Mar Trail on Rattlesnake Mountain, Raymond, Maine

Rattlesnake Mountain is a great Lakes Region hike for families. Enjoy the southern vistas provided by the two viewpoints on ledges, as the summit itself is wooded, and leads to other trails sloping downward. As a general rule, as you move toward the summit, veer left at trail intersections. The top is marked by a small wooden sign to the right of the trail, which is the turnaround point. After the hike, a great place to stop for lunch or a snack in Raymond is The Good Life Market, at the corner of ME-85 and 302, with all kinds of fresh options for every diet. In the fall, we have also picked apples down the road at Meadow Brook Farm.

Lakes Region in winter from 2nd viewpoint, Bri-Mar Trail, Rattlesnake Mountain, Raymond, Maine

Hermit Island Loop

Head Beach from Hermit Island Campground, Phippsburg, Maine

From mid-May to mid-October, Hermit Island is accessible only to registered campers using Hermit Island Campground, and pets are not allowed. In the winter months, however, the trails and beaches on this beautiful island are open for day-use to respectful visitors who clean up after themselves and their dogs (no winter facilities are available). An added winter bonus appears to be the absence of mosquitoes and flies, which appear to be fairly aggressive in the summertime, based upon comments. We explored this quiet space on a chilly but sunny Black Friday, navigating using the AllTrails app, and a printed version of the campsite map on the Hermit Island Campground site.

Sand Dune Beach, Hermit Island Campground, Phippsburg, Maine

We hiked using the campground roads and trails for a moderate clockwise loop that was about 3.8 miles, taking about an hour and a half. Parking is available at the Kelp Shed at Hermit Island Campground, reached by crossing the rutted sand causeway behind Head Beach, effectively at the end of Route 216 in Phippsburg. A quick duck under a gate, and head uphill past a massive anchor at the campground entrance. Almost immediately, a walkway leads to the left, opening upon Head Beach. The camp roads are wide and flat, easy for walking, and bounded by grasses and ornamental berries, with fresh deer prints crossing at intervals.

Worumbo, Hermit Island Loop, Hermit Island Campground, Phippsburg, Maine

Dodge Point Preserve (Newcastle, ME)

Shore Trail, Dodge Point Public Land, Newcastle, Maine

Dodge Point Public Land in Newcastle is a 548 acre preserve on the western shore of the Damariscotta River. A map and description is available at Coastal Rivers Conservation Trust, which co-manages the preserve with the state of Maine and maintains the public dock. An additional Dodge Point Natural Heritage Hike brochure, illuminating the history, flora and fauna of this special place, is available on the Dodge Point page at the Maine Agriculture, Conservation, and Forestry website. I found this hike by reading Dog-Friendly Hikes in Maine, and there were certainly other dogs (besides Pig) along our route. Dodge Point Preserve is at the terminus of the River-Link Trail, so can be combined with other longer area hikes.

Shore Trail, Dodge Point Public Land, Newcastle, Maine

In mid-October, we completed an easy clockwise loop of the Preserve using the Old Farm Road and Shore Trails, totaling about 3.33 miles, about an hour and 45 minutes. We started from the parking area on River Road, passed a series of small bridges and waterfalls, and headed mostly downhill to the shore, past Ice Pond. The first in a series of beaches we encountered was Brickyard Beach, then Sand Beach and Pebble Beach in succession. The trail maps are at most major trail intersections, and allow for self-correction (“You are Here”), and the trails are mostly wide and flat.

Pig looks out from the Public Dock onto the Damariscotta River, Dodge Point Public Land, Newcastle, Maine

Pig sprinted around the beach, chasing sticks and driftwood, and waded into the cold water. The trail moves south along the Damariscotta, with plenty of outlets to the water, ending in the public dock. We saw many gulls and waterfowl along here, as well as a great blue heron. From the public dock, it is an uphill walk through the forest to return to the parking lot, including vernal pools and a beautiful stretch of tall red pines lining the old farm road. Following the trip, we enjoyed the open air tasting room of Sasanoa Brewing (May – Oct, weather-dependent), located on Westport Island.

Tall Trees lining the Old Farm Road, Dodge Point Public Land, Newcastle, Maine

Bonyun Preserve (Westport Island, ME)

Wooden bridge on east side of Mill Cove, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

Bonyun Preserve in Westport Island, Maine, is owned and maintained by the Kennebec Estuary Land Trust (KELT), which has a printable map and description of Bonyun Preserve on its website, as well as in a container at the trailhead kiosk. The Preserve, free to the public, and open daily from dawn to dusk, is named for the landowners who donated the 74 acres of land to KELT in 2002. Dogs are not allowed (eight other KELT properties allow leashed dogs). In mid-September, we used the Thomas Point, Mill Cove, Junction, and Junction Loop trails to make a double lollipop loop of about 4.5 miles, which took us about two and a quarter hours. I navigated using the AllTrails app and the description received from Falcon Guides’ Hiking Maine.

View from Thomas Point, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

A small parking area is located off lower West Shore Road in Westport Island. The trail begins with a wide, flat pine-needle surface, heading downhill to the intersection of the Junction Trail and the Mill Cove and Thomas Cove trails, then splits north, moving around the shore of slow, muddy Mill Cove. The trail then divides into a loop heading south to Mill Cove, and the other side of the loop heading west, then south as it traces Thomas Cove enroute to Thomas Point and the wide Sasanoa River. We took the trail outward in this counterclockwise direction, crossing the narrow peninsula through tall hemlock trees.

Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

Birds were everywhere, and we heard the scratchy whoosh of winged flight nearby, made by a massive bald eagle leaving a nearby tree and heading across the bay. We saw great blue herons, downy woodpeckers, belted kingfisher, hermit thrush, dark-eyed junco, gulls, and cormorants, and heard blue-headed vireo, red squirrels, and chipmunks. The views along this stretch of the trail were incredible, with sun piercing between tall, straight evergreens, brightly-colored seaweed, twisted cedar trees, and light reflected off the tidal blue-green Sasanoa River as it moves toward the Sheepscot River and the sea.

Sasanoa River from end of Mill Cove, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

We stopped to recline on the warm rocks at the point at the end of Mill Cove before moving back up the loop. The remains of Heal’s Mill and its mill pond are here, with placards on the trail detailing their history and purpose, primarily turning logs into boards and grinding corn into meal. You can walk across the narrow spit of land dividing the mill pond from the river, and gaze through grasses and wildflowers at fallen stones and old machine parts and wheels, now covered in barnacles and mud.

Heal’s Mill remnants, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

Continuing back towards the start, we then turned onto the Junction Trail, where a brief climb leads to an overlook of the mill on the east side of Mill Cove, before crossing Junction Road, and heading through stone walls, past Jewett Cemetery to a hilly forest loop, before returning to the parking area. On this trip, we stopped for lunch aways south, freshly crafted sandwiches at the Winnegance Restaurant and Bakery in Bath. On a later trip, we have since enjoyed the open air tasting room of Sasanoa Brewing (May – Oct, weather-dependent), which is just down West Shore Road from Bonyun Preserve.

Mill Cove, Bonyun Preserve, Westport Island, ME

Slaughter Pond

Doubletop Mountain Trail enroute to Slaughter Pond, Baxter State Park, Maine

Slaughter Pond is a sufficiently remote one-way hike that when I mentioned to a Baxter State Park ranger that I was thinking of hiking there, he looked at me curiously, and then asked if I was going to get some fishing in, as that seemed to be the primary reason people make the trek. The pond itself lies slightly outside the borders of Baxter State Park, and is managed by The Nature Conservancy as part of its Debsconeag Lakes Wilderness Area (see map). I hiked there and back, a trip of just over 6 miles, that took me about two and a quarter hours on a rainy mid-September day. I used the map and trail description in Hiking Maine’s Baxter State Park, and navigated using AllTrails and the Map Adventures’ Katahdin Baxter State Park Waterproof Trail Map. The longer, more scenic route starts from the Doubletop Mountain Trail at the Kidney Pond Campground day-use parking area. A shorter route that eliminates Draper and Deer Ponds begins at a trailhead on Kidney Pond Road just west of the bridge over Nesowadnehunk Stream. The Doubletop Mountain Trail route begins as a pleasant, pine-smelling tunnel of thick evergreens, giving way after about a quarter-mile to a more broadly spaced forest.

View across Draper Pond, Baxter State Park, Maine

At about this point in the hike, a light rain began to fall, mostly absorbed by the canopy above me, that continued throughout. At a little before .4 miles. I reached the intersection with the Draper Pond Trail, and continued straight on the spur down to see Draper Pond. The trail was short and easy, and the flat surface of Draper Pond reflecting the mountains was well worth the short detour. I flipped around and headed back up the side trail to rejoin the Doubletop Mountain Trail. The trail was winding, with roots and fallen trees, but generally flat and easy, surrounded by moss, ferns and large glacial erratics. At one elevated point, I could see both peaks of Doubletop Mountain through the trees to my left, and heard a pileated woodpecker loudly calling through the forest.

View across Deer Pond, Baxter State Park, Maine

At about 1.1 miles, I entered a boggy area which required some maneuvering around standing water and negotiating plank bridges over Slaughter Brook, at this point, a swamp overlooked by Doubletop, and held back by beaver dams. The trail was a little more difficult here, as some of the plank bridges had fallen, but I picked my way through. When I got across Slaughter Brook, it appeared that some kind of storm or microburst had taken down a large number of trees, probably accounting for the damage at the crossing I had just made. The trail continued to move in tandem with Slaughter Brook, and at about 1.4 miles, following a right turn, the larger expanse of Deer Pond was visible in front of me, with waving grasses and views of the mountains.

Deer Pond, along Slaughter Brook, Baxter State Park, Maine

I reached the junction with the Slaughter Pond Trail that comes in from the trailhead on Kidney Pond Road, and continued west towards Slaughter Pond. This flat, single-track trail was relatively overgrown, but flat, fast, infused with a pine scent, and serenaded by squawking jays. At about 2.15 miles, I passed the intersection with Doubletop Mountain Trail to the right, and continued less than a mile more, the edge of Baxter State Park marked by a white diamond. This was the beginning of The Nature Conservancy property, followed by a stream crossing. I quickly reached a large area with canoes strewn all around, the boat storage area, used by people who register with The Nature Conservancy for use on Slaughter Pond, and then walked through the trees to see the pond itself, which was beautiful in the light rain. I had hoped that, by approaching a series of backcountry ponds quietly in the rain in the morning, I would’ve maximized my chance of seeing a moose, but it was not to be this day. I only saw moose droppings on the hill overlooking Deer Pond. I had the trail entirely to myself until I passed a middle-aged couple close to the Draper Pond turn on the way back.

Slaughter Pond in the rain, The Nature Conservancy, Maine

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Sentinel Mountain

Morning view of Kidney Pond, Baxter State Park, Maine

Sentinel Mountain (1,842 ft) is not a towering monolith like Katahdin or a sinister double-horned mass lurking like Doubletop but its proximity and line of sight to those two peaks and the rest of Baxter and the North Maine Woods make it an important bucket list hike in Baxter State Park. In mid-September, I had planned for loftier heights and longer distances, but weather changed my plans, and facing impending thunderstorms, I opted out of the all-day hikes above treeline, and chose this smaller mountain. I used information from Hiking Maine’s Baxter State Park and Maine Hikes Off the Beaten Path, and navigated using Map Adventures’ Katahdin Baxter State Park Waterproof Trail Map. This moderately difficult hike of about 6.2 miles took me about three and a half hours, with plenty of time spent resting and enjoying views.

Rocky and green Sentinel Trail, Baxter State Park, Maine

The Sentinel Trail starts from the Kidney Pond Day-Use Parking Area and runs concurrent with the trails to Rocky Ponds, Celia and Jackson Ponds, and Lily Pad Pond. I quickly ran into a large bullfrog perched in the middle of the trail, who looked at me briefly, then jumped beneath a boulder, then I walked past the boulder marked, “Kidney Stone – Do Not Remove,” which is Baxter State Park’s version of a joke. The trail crossed a lively brook emptying into flat, quiet Kidney Pond on a cloudy morning.

Sentinel Trail, Baxter State Park, Maine

The trail continued to skirt the shoreline, with plank bridges and rocks used as stepping stones over moss and mud. I passed the turnoff for Celia and Jackson Ponds, continuing along the shore until I hit the hard right turn to the Sentinel Trail at about half a mile from the trailhead. The trail headed slightly uphill through a thick forest, the most compelling characteristic of which was its overpowering greenness. After a bit of a downhill, this gave way to what looked to be a much younger forest in a low-lying area. At about 1.2 miles the trail crossed Beaver Brook. Through the trees, I could see Beaver Brook feeding into a boggy area, later visible to the left of the trails.

Beaver Brook crossing, Sentinel Trail, Baxter State Park, Maine

Once I got uphill, the trail was slightly faster through pines and then along a plank bridge walkway through another boggy area. Holes through the deep moss in the bog led to mysterious pathways beneath the visible surface of the path, signs of a subterranean world invisible and unknown. The trail then passed a stream with many little rivulets and drops, in the shadow of a large mossy rock outcropping. Shortly after two stream crossings, the trail really began to climb uphill. This grade continued for awhile, and then the last real challenge before making the turn onto the summit trail was a long, steep jumble of rocks and boulders.

View of Lily Pad Pond and Katahdin shrouded in clouds, Sentinel Mountain, Baxter State Park, Maine

After a brief respite, there was another series of rocks, which were, thankfully, more widely spaced to allow for actual footsteps. After this steep climb, the summit loop path was a welcome change, walking on flat rocks, with a cool breeze and views of Baxter State Park and its surroundings. I turned to the right to take the loop counterclockwise and paused, facing east, with a view centered on Katahdin, despite the cloud cover moving in. This stone ledge was a great spot to sit down, have a snack and a drink, and drink in the air and views. Surprisingly, there was sufficient cell service to send home a quick proof-of-life text.

View from Summit Loop, Sentinel Mountain, Baxter State Park, Maine

The remaining circuit was beautiful for the rocks and mountain laurel, lichen and blueberries, interspersed with views off more ledges through scrub pine to the Debsconeag Wilderness Area. There were still a lot of ripe huckleberries on the loop back and one last broad sweeping view as I made the turn left to rejoin the trail down from the summit. I heard a lot more birds on the way back, as some of the clouds cleared but were still hovering over Katahdin, and I heard a yellow-rumped warbler and a blue jay as I passed back near the edge of Kidney Pond.

View from Summit Loop, Sentinel Mountain, Baxter State Park, Maine

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Middle Fowler Pond

Fowler Brook Trail, Baxter State Park, Maine

Baxter State Park’s northern half is quiet, filled with remote ponds. The trail south from the park’s Tote Road to Lower and Middle Fowler Ponds was the perfect late afternoon hike on a mid-September day. I followed the description and map from Hiking Maine’s Baxter State Park, and navigated using AllTrails and the Map Adventures’ Katahdin Baxter State Park Waterproof Trail Map. I completed the approximately 5.4 miles in about two hours and 15 minutes as an out-and-back of the Fowler Brook and Middle Fowler Trails, but a shuttle loop is possible, using the Middle Fowler Pond Trail all the way to the trailhead at South Branch Pond Campground, and spotting a bike or a vehicle there.

Egg-like mushrooms on Fowler Brook Trail, Baxter State Park, Maine

From the parking area on the Tote Road, the Fowler Trail glowed in the late afternoon sunlight, with a pine path carved through bright green moss. The forest held a surplus of red squirrels, busy with late summer gathering activities and chattering at me as I continued to cross plank bridges over a swampy area. A larger bridge crossed a wide brook with long green grass swaying in its current. I could see recent trail work, as storms must have felled a large pine and some other trees further along the way.

View across Lower Fowler Pond to Billfish Mountain, Bald Mountain, and Barrell Ridge, Baxter State Park, ME

By about the half-mile mark, I was traversing an elevated portion of land, looking down at a deep gully to my right that continued for a while, while the sounds of the rushing water of Fowler Brook drifted uphill. At about 3/4 of a mile I crossed a small, rocky creek and finally saw Fowler Brook to my right. In the valley by the brook I saw and then heard a northern flicker, which are always larger up close than they seem as they fly away. I also saw a series of puffball mushrooms, stacked like eggs on a mossy log.

View across Middle Fowler Pond to Bald Mountain, Baxter State Park, Maine

Emerging from the forest, I had a beautiful view of Lower Fowler Pond from the launch spot for the Baxter State Park rental canoes, looking across to Barrell Ridge, Bald Mountain, and the Traveler range. Working my way around the shore of Lower Fowler Pond, I spooked some large waterfowl, who took off for the opposite side of the pond. The trail continued past the Middle Fowler Pond Trail intersection through a campsite with a nice view of the water and its own outhouse. I continued through, on a long quiet walk through the woods to Middle Fowler Pond. The sound of rushing water off to the right signaled the outlet of the pond as I got closer, and I finally saw the outflow, with the water moving over and under large slabs of rock, as it trickled down to the pond I had just departed.

Outlet of Middle Fowler Pond, Baxter State Park, Maine

Middle Fowler Pond itself was magnificent, clear and cradled by lonely peaks and surrounded by trees and flowers. The names lower and middle suggest a third Fowler Pond, and it exists just to the east, named Little Fowler Pond, with no trail leading to it. Should you want to continue onward, the trail continues across the outlet and on the south side of Middle Fowler Pond, moving south of Barrell Ridge and between Little and Big Peaked Mountains, before reaching the road to South Branch Pond. Instead, I paused to take in the pond and its surroundings, have a snack and a drink, then I turned to head back the way I came in the fading light.

Afternoon light on Fowler Brook Trail, Baxter State Park, Maine

(Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, and as an Amazon Associate Hiking in Maine blog earns from qualifying purchases.)